Blink and it’s easy to imagine that you have been transported to a Bavarian enclave. Lights twinkle and the winter air is crisp. Charming wooden stalls beckon with artistic and delicious treats. Shoppers snack on döner kebab while children twirl across the on-site ice rink. Only the 27-ton sculpture of William Penn reminds you that you are in Center City, Philadelphia.
Taking over much of the public space that surrounds the city’s glorious City Hall, Philadelphia’s Christmas Village evokes a traditional German holiday market, right down to the bratwurst. This is fitting, given the city’s history. By the late 1700s, nearly 30 percent of Philly’s foreign-born population was German, second only to the Irish. Today, 3.3 million people across the state claim German heritage.
If your holiday fantasy budget doesn’t allow for airfare to Europe this year, this may be the next best trip. Here’s how to do it: 1) Bang out that holiday shopping list. 2) Feast on a range of European treats. 3) Hit the ice rink or garden maze. 4) Toast your amazing day with a mug of steamy glüwein or an icy adult beverage.
It’s a delicious way to while away an afternoon.
Jenn Hall writes about food and culture from a Jersey-side suburb of Philly. Follow along on Instagram and Twitter @jennsarahhall.
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City Hall was built over a 30-year period beginning in 1871. Situated on the grounds of one of William Penn's five planned city parks, it serves as both governmental and civic space. This is especially true come winter, when the on-site ice rink opens at Dilworth Park. With nearby Love Park under construction, both its namesake sculpture and the Christmas Village moved here for 2016.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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Open through Christmas Eve, the market is expected to attract more than 780,000 shoppers. Meandering 80 wooden booths filled with festive food and wares, it's easy to summon the holiday spirit. The event is inspired by German Christkindlmarkets, rooted in the Middle Ages. Tinged with Bavarian details, Philly's is modeled after the famous one in Nuremberg.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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Its roots are Ottoman, but döner kebabs may top the list of German street foods. (Just don't tell the currywurst.) In part, their popularity can be traced to Turkish migration after WWII and a unique Berliner style that emerged in the 1970s. Maybe. That part of the story is as contentious as the spelling, but one thing is certain. These savory pita sandwiches are incredibly delicious.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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A fixture in the urban landscape, Philly Jesus (aka Michael Grant) shows up all over the city. Part street performer, part evangelist, he's known for treks with large wooden staff in tow. In keeping with a "better to give than to receive" ethos, he stopped to tip a performer in the courtyard during opening weekend.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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Wandering, you'll uncover sweet tastes of Deutschland, including greetings in gingerbread form. Lebkuchen date back hundreds of years, with a League of Lebkuchen-Bakers established in the 1600s. "Weinnacht" is Christmas Eve, when German children open gifts. Though the earliest gingerbread recipe is thought to be Greek, Germans have made it an art form.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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The "Christmas Cottage" is a savory stop, luring hungry shoppers with grill smoke and cheer. If döner kebab rules the street-food scene, bratwurst may just get top billing at the Christkindlmarkt. Lines snake throughout the day for this savory meal in a bun, a Nuremberg specialty. Vegetarians can opt for potato pancakes.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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Buskers and street performers liven the scene, including this feather-bedecked magician who draws enthusiastic crowds. A main stage hosts events throughout the week, from brass bands and folk dancers to a bratwurst-eating contest. Philly-based artists are heavy in the mix, creating a fun, Euro-meets-local vibe.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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PA basswood honey from Draper's Apiaries infuses these Philly-made chocolates. Purveyors of all things decadent and wonderful, John & Kira's have a storytelling bent, reveling in the narratives of their partners. It's little surprise then that these happy treats fly off the shelves. As adorable as they are sweet, each bee is hand-painted.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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Those who prefer chocolates sans honey may wish to try these dark-chocolate-and-caramel whimsies. Inside perfect little magic mushrooms, caramel is flavored with salt, rum-pecan and chili. John and Kira have been crafting chocolates in South Philly since 2002.
Photo: Jenn Hall
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There comes a time when one needs more finger puppets in their life. OK, perhaps this is a stretch – but when they are this adorable, it's hard not to splurge on a handful or two. Clearly, life is better lived when one's pointer finger is bedecked in a handmade dachshund puppet, no?
Photo: Jenn Hall