For 101 long years, folks have been making their way to the annual Pennsylvania Farm Show in Harrisburg, the keystone state’s capital city. Billed as the largest agricultural exposition in the United States, it happens over the course of a deep winter week when one’s breath becomes visible in the chilly air. The reason for the timing: this is when farmers are able to take a break from the long work hours that define their trade.
Waiting for the famous Farm Show milkshake last year (a mid-century tradition that is totally worth the line) an old-timer in suspenders told me that some save all year long just to come to the show. He then chuckled at my admission that it was my first time there. “You’ll be back,” he advised. True enough.
Part trade show, part old-fashioned country fair, there’s enough to keep you busy for days across 11 buildings spanning 24 acres. Expect exhibits, animals, cooking demos, rodeos, baking contests and all things farm-related-including the state’s agriculture princesses, who don tiaras and sashes reflecting everything from apple and grape to alpaca and dairy. Best of all, it’s free to get in, save for a $15 parking fee that rankles the show’s longtime devotees who recall the days when free meant free.
More than a presentation of tractors and plows (though there’s plenty of that), the show is a celebration of all things Pennsylvania grown. With 60,000 farms and economic impact exceeding $7.4 billion, agribusiness is one of the Pennsylvania’s biggest sectors. Here’s how to dig in.
Jenn Hall writes about food and culture from a Jersey-side suburb of Philly. Follow along at jennhallwrites.com.
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Strange that this cider-press "model" looks so glum: apples are big business in Pennsylvania, to the tune of 440 million pounds harvested annually. Maybe she sampled one too many hard ciders the night before…
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A steakhouse classic, baked potatoes can be criminally mishandled. Not so, here. These golden-fleshed beauties are moist, flavorful and drenched in melted butter. The difference comes down to the soil in which PA potatoes are grown, according to Beck. More minerals mean a more flavorful spud. Other offerings from the Pennsylvania Cooperative Potato Growers (the oldest such cooperative in the U.S.) include fresh-fried potato donuts.
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With an emphasis on education, this is an ideal place to get to know your farmer. They come from all over the state and are happy to chat. Bryan Beck and his relatives own Long Acres Potato Farms in Tionesta. Eva, age 10, is a fifth-generation grower. She's also the family's official potato-battery expert, running an experiment station at the show. As for Bryan's favorite potato? That would be Eva, a Cornell-developed variety. Coincidence?
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Full? Leave room for the PA Farm Show's heaping serving of butter. One of the most popular attractions, the annual butter sculpture is a thing of wonder. For the 100th anniversary in 2016, the sculpture required no less than 1,000 pounds of the good stuff, tempered to 55 degrees for optimal sculpting. At the end of the show, it was recycled in Reinford Farm's methane digester.
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During the opening ceremony, Secretary of Agriculture Russell C. Redding emphasized consumers' growing interest in understanding where their food comes from. PA Preferred is a homegrown initiative, designed to inspire a buy local movement. Fun fact: it takes 456 apples to make a gallon of cider.
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Don't think you're capable of canning envy? Take a gander at this mountain of summer's best. There's something charming about the celebration of the homemaking arts, though contestants come from all walks and regions. Those that get the fever can seek tips and recipes at the Penn State Extension display.
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On the production side, Hollabaugh Bros. cleaned up in the produce category, winning for their roadside fruit market exhibit and too many apple categories to list. Here, Bruce Hollabaugh and two of his children pause to celebrate their victory. On discovering mom Amanda's win in the gift basket competition, their excitement was contagious.
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If you're the type to heed the call of fried mozz, you may want to steer clear of these bad boys. Another standout from the Dairyman's Association, they'll ruin you forever on the pub-grub standard. First things first, they come on a stick. (A clear advantage.) Secondly, they'll stretch to the Ohio border if tested– and the creaminess factor is off the charts.
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This is also a cheese-lover's (read: sampler's) dream. Farm Fromage specializes in the raw-variety, except for their soft camembert. The company aims to put small-batch Lancaster cheeses into the spotlight, connecting local cheese-makers with larger urban markets. Their beer-washed tomme sings.
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Eating at the Farm Show is like a choose-your-own-adventure story and a competitive eating competition combined. One could do well enough simply indulging in the copious free samples in the Main Hall. That said, vendors have plenty to offer, most representing their respective grower's associations, covering everything from potatoes and other veggies to dairy, cattle and maple. Insider's tip: wear loose clothing.
Photo: Jenn Hall